Italy – part 1
We arrived to Bari, in South Italy, by ferry from Greece. Driving north west on the highway we saw fields of olive trees, fig trees, and along the outer edges were cactuses taller then us decorated by orange bulbs which I assumed must be cactus fruit or prickly pear or something like this. Elmir stopped so that I could explore. Indeed, it was a fruit that I had seen at the grocery store. So, if you know me – you can predict what’s coming.. I picked 2 of the fruit and headed back to the car excitedly & prickles in my fingers. Note: even though you can’t see the prickles doesn’t mean they are not there! Also, if you think that you can just rub them off you are in for an extra treat – more prickles! So, with hands feeling somewhat on fire, I wash the fruit & peel off the skin to sample. Sweet tropical taste, lots of small stone like seeds. We all had a taste then I got to work removing prickles for the next hour with a pair of tweezers. An interesting sight were all of the stone beehive shaped houses nestled amongst the olive trees. I’m curious.
First stop: Naples for PIZZA
A friend in Canada mentioned the possibility of us meeting in Naples as she was planning to travel there and eat at the restaurant where Julia Roberts was filmed savouring pizza in the movie Eat Pray Love. Even though we couldn’t meet up, this became one of our foodie family stops. We found our way to the old part of the city and couldn’t believe the driving culture. Narrow roads of this old city (not built with cars in mind) were lined with parked cars all dented and contorted and tightly squeezed into place. (you think I am exaggerating ..) We turned in our mirrors and Elmir wove slowly left, left, right, left to a private parking garage. We settled into a hotel and went in search of L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele. Road signs in Europe are on the buildings and not always easy to spot – also, like most old cities the roads meld and intertwine with each other differently then our east to west, north to south linear construction. It is very easy to get turned around and then lost 😉 We found the place, a simple door down a quiet street off of the main road, decorated as it was 100 hunded years ago, and serving just 2 options Pizza Margarita e Pizza Marrinera. We ordered one of each. The dough was hand shaped and stretched to each side of a wooden plank, dressed, and slid into a wood burning brick stove. With a bottle of water and two of the most delicious pizzas we have ever tasted we left satisfied. The children both got to try granita as we walked a bit & went back to the hotel for a rest. The following day, we thought that we could try another pizza place but as we got close Eamon led us the rest of the way and we were happy to order the very same thing. Again, the perfect balance between a tender chewy sweet salty crust and the simplicity of sauce and herbs.
Driving in Naples again: crazy, tactful, unorganized, reflexes heightened, toes clenched.
Rome
We arrived at 4pm and thought about taking a 4hr walk then leaving the city. Not possible. We went first to the colloseum and signed up for a guided tour. Next to Greek mythology Zion has a keen interest in some Roman history. I hope that this city brought it to life for him the way it did for me. Leaving the coloseum we were drawn from one ruin to a monument, to another ruin, to a maze of cobblestone corridors. Rome sucked us in. We had not done much research (and generally try to keep our explorations simple / not completely tourist driven) so we were not aware to what extent our senses would be teased by this stop in Rome. As the night drew in, the energy heightened. The monuments and fountains lit up and people gathered for food, music, walking, … 10:30 pm we made our way to a hotel so that we could do it all again.
Pisa for the day
Through the ancient walls of the old city centre we saw rows of appartments, colourful in a muted way. From the GPS we found ourself close to the leaning tower of Pisa, parked the car, gathered our picnic, and walked 3 minutes & there it was. Indeed leaning. Zion full of theories went to inspect. I was filled by a childish giddy feeling, as it was reminiscent of a cartoon. The tower wad been cleaned and was gleaming white surrounded in a courtyard by other magnificent structures. Green grass filled the gaps between and made it feel as though they somehow didn’t all belong together. Tourists everywhere were standing with one had up trying to capture the perfect picture – we tried it too 😉 and a whole lot more.. A super fun family afternoon.
The province of Tuscany
Again drawn by a movie, we took a drive down a county road to see the softness of the hills topped with old towns, low forests with castles peeking over tree tops, a stop for Gelato then a drive to a town near Bologna. We will see more. Florence: you are on our list.
Couchsurfing
Our hosts were running late with work so we found a wonderful tree shaded playground with an outdoor café / bar attached. Running, fun, and play kitchens.
Our hosts met us there and led us to their parent’s house where his mother had prepared us a locally traditional meal. Hand made Lasagna, pasta with what we know as bolognaise sauce, grilled meat, salad with local balsamic vinegar, local parmesana, aubergines, stuffed tomatoes, wonderful wine, fresh local fruits, … a bin of toys (need I say more). When leaving (to spend the night with our hosts) I thanked them and said goodbye feeling I had said nothing at all. What does one say to such tremendous hospitality? How can one express in a “thank you” what such a rich experience means to us? Our hearts are touched, our minds are expanded, our children have felt genuine kindness, gratefulness pounds through each vain … and the only word I can say is Gratzie, Thank you..
